Friday, August 21, 2015

The Irony called Bengaluru

When do you call a city your ‘home’? When you live in a city for 10 years? When you get used to the weather so much that you crib and cringe at slight changes to the ‘used to’ weather patterns? When you progress beyond ‘Kannada gothilla’ to broken fragmented Kannada that can be used as basic survival skills? When you can entertain an outsider for a day or two with the sights and smells and tastes of the city?

If the above definitions are checked off diligently, then yes I do belong to Bengaluru and can probably safely update the ‘home’ section in any form as Bengaluru! But if I introspect further and try to find a rooted love, affection and pride for this city – then my confidence gives way and I am pretty sure that I have never shed a nostalgic tear in this city, never swelled in the pride of being a Bengalurean, never thought of trading anything with simply living in this city! So what does that make me – a hybrid confused desi Bengalurean?

Bengaluru is the sum total of ironies and frustrations of thousands of migrants that live, breathe, eat, drink, celebrate and work their days through the city! As the days progress, crowds expand and burst at the seams, roads contract and crack and traffic snarls snake through highways and bylanes of the city. The hapless citizens have two choices to deal with the mess that they live in – either accept, compromise and move on or crib, cry, pent out anger and have a bad night’s sleep. Whilst people pride in the culture of ‘Namma Bengaluru’; one can rarely find its tradition and heritage on the streets, amongst your neighbours or in the festivities of the city; Bengaluru is a cauldron of expats, southies, northies and people from all walks of lives – the so-called migrants have created imprints and footprints of their culture and habits in the nooks and corners of the city – the medley is so colourful, so diverse and so significant that one needs to really go on deep-rooted hunts to touch the real soul of Bengaluru!

Whilst you learn to love the blossomy cheer of the few left over Gulmohar trees that have been spared by the realtor monsters; you are equally frightened by the frothy lakes that pollute and poison the atmosphere of the city. Whilst you are spoilt of culinary choices by the growing ‘fine dining’ experiences across European, Mexican, French and Vietnamese cuisines; you are equally wary of the fact that you have to really research yourself to have a slice of Bengaluru’s culinary heaven – simple Dosa coupled with ‘by-two’ coffee at one of the ‘darshni’ restaurants of Bangalore! While we take pride in the musical, theatrical and ‘sante’ culture of the city; we are equally at our wit’s end to figure out a simple weekend outing lazying in a park, by the lake or simply nibbling peanuts while the world moves along!

Guess there is no ‘ultimate’ city formula that can satisfy its residents…So as you love and enjoy the global experiences being resurrected in Bengaluru – whether it’s French wine tasting festivals, Spanish Tomatina festivals, German October fests..you do also compromise the limited spaces and roads of the city with a burgeoning mass of migrants! And it’s a vicious circle of people moving for better jobs, metro experiences created by the very increase in number of people interested in moving to this city and finally resulting in unbelievable pressures on land, air, water, roads and the very soul of the city…Add the ‘laid back’ attitude of governments and citizens alike to this complex formula and the result is an ironic jamboree of a city – where biggest cars battle with cows on smallest roads and where distance is measured in time and where you will still find people lining outside Corner House for their favourite ice cream even if a Haagen Dazs showroom shines bright right across the street!


Sunday, August 9, 2015

P.S. I Love London

A week of bright summery London days melted my pre-conceived images of London..toppled my ‘highbrowed’ disgust for ‘typical touristy London’…and definitely brought out the sunshine in me!

London city wooed me like an Englishman..with its airs, its style, its traditionalism, its English manners and of course its old time charm! There is something about the summery sunny days of London which doesn’t set till the wee hours of the ‘Indian night time. Within a day of landing – I purchased the one thing that you can’t do without in London – the ‘tube’ pass and with the power of a tube pass in-hand, I conquered the city with the ‘thirst of the Empire’J!The city is beautifully connected - it’s road, rail network’s tentacles reaching the far and farther and the wide and the wider corners of London and its suburbs! You do not need more than a few minutes to figure out the ‘tube layout’ and then you are on a joyride- hopping-on and hopping-off the trains and exploring the beauty and myriad streets of the city.

My first haunt was the sleepy town of Greenwich…made famous by the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) that we all follow..I took the customary snap at the ‘grand GMT median’ which defines time and tide for all global citizens! But what I loved more was the astounding view from the observatory…autumn coloured paths and pastures..pretty British structures and amazing skylines! And I rambled along the quaint little streets and passed by the little ‘fish and chips’ shops and antiques, aimless and content. A stroll around the signature ‘Cutty Sark’ ship and an indigo sunset view of the skyline was worth the long walk. And when I thought I had seen it all, I stumbled upon an old run-down antique bookshop that caught my imagination…the musty smell of hardbound books intoxicated me and I ended up buying a vintage Pride & Prejudice copy to carry home!

Another week of work and commute took me through the ‘glassy’ ‘Wall Streety’ views of Canary Wharf where sky scrapers were in perfect harmony with the waters and the docks! The weekend was well spent in ticking off the various touristy items on the ‘must-do London map’..but the sights of Big Ben, London Eye etc. had been so seen before…so many Bollywood dames have romanced and danced through the landmarks that it didn’t yield the kind of awe that probably should have been felt. But those landmarks apart, I cherished the moments spent exploring Covent Garden and its numerous local markets…digging into a ‘Jacket Potato’ while tiny shows and performances entertained the summer crowds and where pigeons flitted and landed on the cobbled streets of London.

The one last item on my wish list was accomplished before the evening of my departure – a live performance at her Majesty’s theater of the Phantom of the Opera…a true performance that captures the spirit of London Theater and combines musical ecstasy with theatrical extravagance and tops it off with solid performances that stimulated my senses.  Work and pleasure completed – I was off to India when I had a quick stop at my dear old Muscat..the Muscat of my childhood and adolescent days! Whilst all passengers fretted about the small airport and the long wait for their outbound flights, I merrily experienced the familiar sights of ‘Sultan Qaboos’, ‘Nido’ tins, ‘Oman chips’ packets…the aromatic smells of dates and incense..my entire Omani childhood memories came alive and I crushed into an emotional bundle as the flight purred and roared away from the desert city of Muscat!