Friday, April 20, 2018

Arunachal – Where Mountains Reign


It is an arduous task trying to encapsulate a trip to Arunachal Pradesh into words. It is a journey more than a destination, an experience more than a trip, a string of towns and villages than “tourist spots”.

It is like road-tripping into a pantomime of changing landscapes – the roads wind into infinity, the fog sometimes sprinkles magic on the windshield, the mist sometimes engulfs the majestic mountain peaks, waterfalls gush out of the rocky terrain at unexpected bends and curves and the stately Kameng river accompanies us through this enchanting journey.

We hopped into the “border” area of Arunachal Pradesh called Bhalukpong where one has to display passes and complete procedures for entry. And then the roads took us uphill into the sleepy town of Bomdila – the fog thickening into an invisible blanket as we checked into the cozy comfort of our rooms. A shivering night and a breathtaking morning waking up to the clouds and mountains and we bid goodbye to the happy faces of the hotel staff.

And then the roads wound into curves and took us through an array of tiny villages – their cute rustic houses bordered with an enviable collection of flower pots, small children playing to their hearts’ content, ladies breaking into stones with their tiny tots saddled in a sling…charming sights that warm you and question your rushed and hushed urban existence.

After a while the villages vanished and were replaced with army barracks, olive green trucks and an army of personnel who guard the country from the border forces. And the moment that I awaited flashed before me – Sela Pass – an isolated haven of snow peaked mountains and frozen lakes..I could not have asked for more as a slight snow erupted with soft little flakes brushing my hair and nose! The hangover of the sweaty days in Bangalore made me scream out in elation and the crunchy feeling of snow in my bare hands was pure bliss found in the summer month of April. Mustering as much courage as I could, I walked, soaked in and enjoyed the icy white landscape and hesitantly moved on to Tawang.

Tawang is a mischievous town of varied weather – as one layers up the winter clothes, the sun would peep out and shine over the valley and mountains. As you step out to enjoy the sun, a mad torrent of rain will come pelting down to chill your bones. As you step out of the comfort of the heated room, a gush of winter fog will get you scampering back. A non-touristy tourist location – it boasts of a 400-year-old monastery that will awe you with its rustic architecture and monks who go about their business. When you tire of the walk and sights of the valley, you can indulge in the yummiest momos and simply rest to soak in the sights and sounds of its charming people and regal weather.

The journey back was equally mystical and we had the luxury of a halt at the picturesque town of Dirang where the river, mountains and houses united to greet us. As we descended into the plains, the rear view mirror capturing the last specks of the peaks and fog, there was an uneasy longing for the mountain, valley and small town charms..I was almost unsure whether I left a part of my soul behind or whether I carried a piece of Arunachal within me as I bid goodbye?