There are places that tom-tom their treasures, market their specialities and create a cloud of hype and anticipation. Then there are places that stay coy, laden with riches and wait to be explored and discovered…Trivandrum belongs to the latter category.
As I prepared for a week of
Trivandrum exploration – packing a bit of staycation, a bit of family time, a
bit of working – I was only looking forward to the novelty of a new place and
to check the boxes of the capital city’s famous spots…
But Trivandrum proved to be
an absolute stunner and I was stumbling from one treasure to another..
discovering troves of riches..and before I knew it, I was caught in the
tapestry of Travancore history and the vast expanse of diverse natural wonders
of south Kerala.
So one day, I was cruising
in a boat through Poovar – calmed by the soothing silence of mangrove forests,
the sight of migratory birds and the unique meeting place of sea and the river.
And the silence was interrupted by our boatsman’s tales of fishing villages, of
Marthanda Varma king’s times of hiding amongst the very mangrove forests and of
changing times and water levels that Poovar witnesses each season.
And the next day I found
myself first gaping at the sapphire Mankayam waterfalls at Brymore and then
jumping into its lap of clear waters – pristine and therapeutic in equal
measure! My head was screaming curses at the dripping mess that I had become
but my mind was in a state of blue satiation – the tingle of the current still
clinging to me as I moved to the next destination.
And if the forest and
waterfalls weren’t good enough, the cliffs and white sandy beach of Varkala
awaited us as we rushed to its fold to catch a sunset. Varkala was unlike any
beach destination that I have ever visited – here was a high formation of
cliffs that boasted a seaview that was unparalleled and at its feet was the
whitest haven of a beach ever witnessed! I ‘funned’, I frolicked amongst the
waves and after soaking in the crimson sunset, I explored the winding pathways
by the cliff. Tiny illuminated shops selling knick-knacks, music streaming and
mixing with the murmurs of the sea that was so close and black..a gypsy vibe
that was so present in the air..a sumptuous dinner overlooking the sea and the
glitter of the Varkala skyline – and the day was done well.
After the round of natural
wonders, it was time to explore the history and culture of old Travancore. So I
went for an early morning tour of the famed Padmanabha temple – and I was
awakened – not so much by religiousness of it all but by the aesthetics, the
subtle beauty, trying to imagine a kingdom of yesteryears – the core of the
city right here with a temple, a pond and line of shops, museums and palaces –
all dusted with history and tales..few more rounds of exploration at the
Kuthira Malika palace, shopping exploits at an 18th century weaving
center and traditional ‘rasa-vada’ downed with coffee at ‘Mani mess’ and I
returned home with a happy tummy, a shopping bag filled with goodies and a
restless mind – eager to see and feel more!
I tried to pack a lot more
into the rest of the week – night walks to the seats of power and tussle (the
Secretariat), breezy outings to the Kowdiar area, sneak peaks into the Napier
museum, Trivandrum zoo and the Chitra Art Gallery and a live conjurer’s
performance at Magic Planet…my mind dizzy with the sights, sounds and
experiences and yet leaving a sense of ‘more’.
As I rounded off the trip, the ‘last evening’ was well spent sipping tea at Trivandrum’s ‘central vista’ area- seeping in the beautiful buildings, the green avenues, people inching home and seeing the twinkling city lights – I had become a part of it all.. But yet I wanted more..like there was a lot that I had left uncovered..lot more to experience..so alongwith the souvernirs and the soft 'sweet boli' that I packed home, I also carried along a wanting called Trivandrum..
