Rajasthan – A Riot of Culture and Colour

If there is a place that combines culture, class and colour into one magical red carpet ride….then it has to be simply Rajasthan….We sojourned our way through four distinct cities of Rajasthan (incidentally these cities were part of different ‘princely states’ if we go back in history) that demonstrate their individual taste, culture, history and fabric…and yet there was a common thread of royalty and heritage that bound them together. Mouth-watering Rajasthani food and utmost hospitality is definitely another common factor that binds these erstwhile princely states together..a critical factor that satisfies every traveler and makes them go back for more of Rajasthan each time!

We started our royal ride at Jaipur which is the most modern and capital face of Rajasthan…whilst the city and its roads and numerous rat-runs did not invoke any excitement in the traveler in me, its most coveted treasures did invoke the deepest awe and admiration from me…its lofty and majestic forts..Amer, Jaigarh and Nahargarh….absolutely stunning pieces of architecture and grandeur…its vast unshakeable borders, its intricate designs and the sheer luxury of the bygone generations humble and enchant you in equal measure! An evening at the famed ‘Chokhi Dhani’ (an artificial Rajasthani theme park kind of a hang out place) rounded up the Jaipur trip with glimpses of Rajasthani culture..puppet shows, matka chai, ghoomar dances and delicious Rajasthani thali..

We thought we had seen it all at the Chokhi Dhani until we reached the desert city of Jaisalmer - rustic and exotic..it couldn’t have got better than this…!Golden sandstone buildings all around you…a living sandstone fort that rises above the city and towers over it like an emperor…a beautiful sandstone railway station including a beautifully designed sandstone bench (proud of you Indian Railways!!)…I could describe Jaisalmer forever..If you want to experience the incredible sights, sounds, smells and soul of the city..you must idly walk through the narrow cobbled streets of the fort where you encounter rustic houses, cows that stare you in the eye…tiny shops that display classy treasures that will truly make you the ultimate shopaholic…cafes and restaurants at various elevations that boast of beautiful views of Jaisalmer…we spent hours simply sipping masala chai and staring at the city below us…sand and sandstone buildings..no concrete..no glass buildings…no other visually sour objects..just a visual spectacle of nature and history!

Of course, we couldn’t leave Jaisalmer without getting on a cute camel..our transporter to the desert was Akhiya…he (or was it she) walked through the sand…rocking us and finally depositing us at the magical Thar desert dunes….we rolled and sashayed and satiated all our childish sand dreams and after seeing a romantic sunset by the sands…we checked into our desert camp….and that was a night to remember…a page out of Arabian nights…the stars above, Rajasthani live folk music dissolving into the windy night, the sparkling ghagras rotating and mesmerizing us…! We were awakened the next morning by the rare sound of peacocks…we walked around picking up peacock feathers and sand duning one last time!

The blue blue city of Jodhpur was next in line to enthrall us and we had our first brush with Marwar history in our blue guest house….heritage rooms with antiquity …the royal blue colour all around and the magnificent Mehrangarh fort in the backdrop..The fort is as much competition to the other royal structures at Amer and Jaisalmer in its beauty and splendor…but the stunning view of an ocean of blue houses is a sight owned by Mehrangarh alone! We then explored further into the villages of Jodhpur where we were fortunate to catch a glimpse of the Marwar folk festival and where we were invited into the houses of artisans where they proudly displayed their artistic brilliance…pottery, weaving..you truly appreciate the ‘handcraftedness’ of all items for sale as you move through the villages…artisans in remote corners of our country who are probably not aware of the ‘branded’ loot that happens in air-conditioned stores of urban cities! And of course the signatory village dames in colourful ghagras and proud men in turbans greeted us through the streets..It was an experience that brought me closer to the struggles of people, to the soul of Indian history and to the pride of our arts and crafts….!

We made our final stop at the white city of royalty – Udaipur…a city that is as white as in its architectural structures as in the faces that walk in and around the ‘old city’.(do not be surprised if you run into boards in French, Italian coffee, German bakes and locals who fluently speak Spanish! )ours were probably the few odd ‘brown’ Indian faces that dotted the beautiful streets of Udaipur…another palace and we thought there can be nothing more to see but were royally stunned with the Rajputan pride and élan that the city palace of Udaipur exudes! A palace that is sheer class and a brand of its own…with a beautiful view of the famed lakes of Udaipur…it’s a city that takes out the pace and stress out of you..it slows you down..and you cannot help but simply sit around the lake..catch the sunrise and the sunset..aimlessly wonder through the streets…shopping for all things Mewari….As the clock speedily ticked into the last moments in Udaipur..we relished a Rajashthani dinner with the shimmering palace and its watery reflection for company….The Udaipur sun god shone bright and bid us farewell next morning…As the images blurred and the aircraft took us to the clouds above… I realized that I carried more than a piece of Rajasthan into my soul!