Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Russia – lifting the Veil

If there is a destination that exudes mystery and charm, it would have to be Russia…almost like an exotic woman .. she wraps her enigma wrapped within and veils it from the outside world…you need to flirt with her…go on a road trip…spend an evening in her company.. to unwrap the mysteries that become her…And once you draw closer to her, the unravelling is magical and you are smitten by her grace, her history and her class and culture..

And so what started as an infatuation at the start of our trip in Moscow intensified further to an obsession as we explored Vladimir, Suzdal and Posad and turned into hopeless love as we bid goodbye to St Petersburg.

Moscow is a massive expanse of history and culture that one can explore from various quarters and a comprehensive coverage is impossible.. I was first taken back to the Soviet era at the flea market in Izmailovsky..it was an experience like none other – old Russian ladies selling a variety of knick- knacks from yellowed pages of old Russian newspapers to scarves and Russian Matryoshka dolls…not to forget the Soviet military coats and war memorabilia. I almost lost myself to the bygone era as I touched the old dolls, ceramic pots and gramophone records that one could bargain your way through..

And of course we did the rounds of the city to witness its grandeur and rich history..Kremlin and the Red Square – the famous square which has witnessed end of the “empire”..the Bolshevik revolution…..my days at school hearing the “red” stories of Russian history gushed back as our guide walked us through the grand monuments and churches at the Kremlin..And some more monuments…the oldest departmental store (GUM) – a symphony of luxury and old time charm and the St Basil’s Cathedral looming bright and beautiful as we walked through the cobbled streets. The most fascinating heritage of Moscow resides in its Metro stations…each station restored and retained with its past glory and architecture…if one has massive marble columns, the other would have beautiful paintings and sculptures…one would need to get down at every station to admire these wonders! We went back to the streets of Moscow after our “guided” tour once again to explore the city..stumbling and fumbling with the Metro map..figuring out the boards with their cute Russian script…attempting conversation with signs and expressions with the Russians on the street.. massive streets and structures, the strange mix of storm, hailstorm, rain and sunshine that Moscow bestowed us with…the skies turning from grey to blue in alternate cycles..and the sun shining bright as we crept into our beds at 10:00 pm - it was worth every “ruble”..

Vladimir, Suzdal and Posad – the cities of the “golden ring” were the next encounters that awaited us…the hidden jewels of Russia…exotic churches, countryside houses and an atmosphere that is truly mesmerizing…tourism is almost non-existent and that is an added charm of any destination…just functional churches ..peaceful hymns reverberating in the massive vacuum of the church…chandeliers of ornate gold…the spaces outside with the green pastures dotted with the “yellow” flower and of course tulips…!! That simple flower in bloom and in varied colours fills you with an energy and joy that is indescribable!

A superfast train zipped us from Moscow to St Petersburg in a few hours and a city of a totally diverse nature awaited us…the city of bridges, palaces, theaters and monuments…its heart throbs through the Neva river which meanders through the various quarters of the city. Symmetry in every corner and every street and every structure..and musicians jumping into performances at every corner… it is unalloyed relaxation as you walk through the streets and the music mixes with the air of St Petersburg to give you a blast of ecstasy.. The experience further enhanced by witnessing the Russian ballet…the Swan Lake..and it was an experience to cherish forever..the grace of the dancers, the orchestra and the ambience of the historical theater!


Alas..the walks had to end,,the music had to end.. and of course our Russian sojourn…. as we dug into a Russian dish one last time and the St Petersburg sun refusing to set on that bright summer night – we clinked our Russian coins and returned to India…forlorn souls… hopelessly in love and pining to return to the mystery woman!

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